After the liberation of Gilgit-Baltistan, the region was accessible by air (flights subject to weather) and by road through the Babusar Valley Road crossing over the Babusar Top (13700 feet) to Chilas and Gilgit. Chilas was occupied by the British after a fierce battle in 1893 and its position on the flank of the Gilgit-Kashmir road made it a place of military importance. This Babusar road was developed by the British to connect the region with Frontier (KP) and Punjab and also to ensure protection of its exposed flank. This road remained open for four months in summers only. After partition, a plan was conceived to connect Chilas with Swat via Besham through a 250-kilometre road to be known as Indus Valley Road and it was also decided to widen the existing 90 miles narrow track between Chilas and Gilgit which was assigned to PWD.
Plans for the construction of Karakoram Highway were drawn up in 1958/1959 and work commenced in 1960. On the ground, there was no track to follow, just a narrow footpath even difficult for animals to negotiate. According to veterans who worked on the project, all the supplies including explosives had to be carried by the soldiers on their backs. Most of the equipment was dismantled and then carried to the next camp to be reassembled. In 1965, some 140 kilometres of the planned 155 had been completed. During the 1965 war, construction work was stopped. After the war, work resumed and it was decided to expand the road up to the Chinese border (Khunjerab Top) and accordingly, an agreement was signed with China in 1966.
In 1967, simultaneous construction started from Thakot-Chilas to Gilgit and also from Khunjerab. According to the agreement, China undertook the construction work to build a similar road on its side of the border. Work on both sides started in 1966 and the same year Frontier Works Organisation (FWO) was created. At the peak of construction some 15000 people worked on the project from Pakistan’s side and China employed a work force between 9000 to 11000.
The road was completed in 15 years which passes through some of rugged, toughest and most picturesque terrain in the world. KKH covers 100 miles through Kohistan district, 75 miles through district Chilas and from Danyor to Khunjerab covers a 165 miles distance along Hunza river. The 500-mile (847 kilometers) road starts from Havelian, winds through Abbottabad, Mansehra, Battagram, Thakot, Besham, Shatial, Chilas, Gilgit, Hunza, Khunjerab and enters China. KKH at Khunjerab top (15400 feet), the northern gate at the roof of the world crosses to enter China and Mintaka pass lie astride an ancient silk route that led from Europe to Asia. In the past, the link between Hunza and China was across the Kilik-Mintaka passes over the opening of Misgar village and onwards to Hunza. Mintaka was an opening towards the Chinese empire on the East and Russia on the north-west whereas the British were to the south.
Today, much of KKH follows the old silk route which was opened during the Han dynasty some 200 years before the birth of Christ. The road which has now replaced the silk route is KKH, known as the eighth wonder of the world. 810 Pakistani soldiers and 82 Chinese workers lost their lives during the construction. The army engineers pioneered the KKH before China joined them in a big way. The present road which has been re-carpeted and widened is like a expressway and will not be an exaggeration if it is called the silk route. In the past, the Skardu region was connected with Gilgit through a jeepable track via the Deosai plains (15000 feet), which was covered in 8 days. There was another foot track along the Indus River from Gilgit to Skardu used during winters and 12 days were taken to reach Skardu.
The Jaglot-Skardu road, which is 164 kilometers long, has recently been upgraded/expanded which was inaugurated by the Prime Minister Imran Khan in December last year. The width of the road has been expanded from 3.6 to 7.3 meters and sharp curves have been smoothened. The strategic Jaglot-Skardu road connects KKH from Jaglot (40 kilometers short of Gilgit) with Skardu (7300 feet). In the 80s, while serving at Siachen glacier, I travelled on the old Jaglot-Skardu road frequently which took 8 hours. With the upgrade, the travel time has been reduced from 9 hours to 3. Jaglot-Skardu road is vital from a defence point of view. The road is a major supply route to troops deployed at Siachen, Shyok valley, Indus valley and the Kargil sector. The entire Baltistan division for all logistics supplies is dependent on this road. KKH and Jaglot-Skardu road will certainly bring prosperity to the region; tourism will flourish, which will also increase economic activities.
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